Backpacking in Europe; Deck Class Travel - is it worth it?
- The Bearded Blogger
- Sep 26
- 12 min read
I like nothing more than saving money. In fact, I've been known to walk several miles just to save a few Euros on a bus fare. So, when it comes to a long haul ferry crossing let's take money saving to an extreme by travelling deck class - ideal for those looking to save some money or those backpacking around Europe.
But, what is deck class?
Well, deck class is the budget travel option where, primarily on moderate to long haul routes, you don't have a private ensuite cabin with comfortable bed but instead sleep in one of the public lounges, halls or exterior deck.
Other than the cost of the actual ferry crossing travelling deck class is FREE!
Although deck class is available aboard most, if not all, Mediterranean ferries these days, for this journey I travelled south with Moby Lines aboard their vintage cruise ferry Moby Otta from Genoa (Genova) to Olbia, a lengthy voyage of around ten hours.
Originally entering service in 1976, next year she'll be an astounding fifty years old making her one of the oldest ferries still in operation in Europe but, despite her age and being dwarfed by newer vessels, she's in a class of her own; an ocean liner profile featuring a raked bow, lido pool, terraced stern decks, elegant profile and powerful engines leaving other vessels in her wake.
But first Genoa (Genova).
What can I say about this sprawling city?
Well, the first time I visited back in 2018 I vowed never to return again!
Why?
Well, my accommodation was located at the western end of the city close to the port and although a good location for the ferry and the accommodation being exceptionally cheap, there were some unsavoury characters lurking in the dark shadows of the myriad of narrow streets plus the unbearable noise of the adjacent main road and the disgusting stench of rotting food being 'cooked' in the roadside metal garbage bins owing to the summer heat was too much to bare - I guess that's why the accommodation was so cheap!
Surely this wasn't all that Genoa had to offer?
So I returned in the summer of 2025 to have a better explore and I'M SO PLEASED I DID!
This time I stayed at the eastern end of the city - around a thirty / forty minute walk from the port; a far more desirable area with a huge array of pavement restaurants, bars and boutique shops with their beautiful architecture in pastel shades being a photographers paradise!
That's the purpose of A2B via Sea®; I do the legwork, the investigating and make the mistakes so when you undertake your own adventures you'll know what to expect.
The waterfront is simply amazing with a huge marina accommodating multi-million pound yachts, cinema complex, boardwalk restaurants and even a domed structure which, at the time of my visit, was host to a music festival.
I would return to Genoa again without any hesitation!
Let's head to the ferry.
The port is a bustling hub located off the main elevated road which separates the city from the waterfront.
Sharing space with a large shopping centre the ferry terminal building - Terminal Traghetti - has an inconspicuous look.
Ferry operator information desks are located on the upper level whilst downstairs you'll find a shopping centre, independent shops, pharmacy, car rental, café and McDonald's restaurant.
With giant modern ferries offering regular services to Corsica, Sicily, Spain, Morocco and Sardinia it appears the landside port infrastructure hasn't kept up with the modern developments as vehicles and passengers jostle for space in a relatively confined area and as such, the whole experience can be very unnerving but, that's all part of the adventure.
Travelling as a foot passenger, I was advised by the exceptionally friendly Moby Lines staff member I could proceed to the security gate around 90minutes prior to departure; ceiling mounted monitors give details of which berth the ship would be located - just ensure you know what time your ship departs and ideally the name of the ship as on the day of my voyage two ships from the same company operated to the same destination within ninety minutes of each other.
If you have a few minutes to spare head to the adjacent roof top car park where there are excellent views of the port - you may even see your ferry arrive from its previous journey.
Just like an urban rush hour, early evening is an exceptionally busy time at the Port of Genoa with MANY ships coming and going and to be fare wouldn't look out of place in the cartoon 'Wakey Races' - not least because some of the Moby ships are adorned with Loony Tunes art work!
Foot passengers must pass through a small security check-point consisting of just one door and therefore, long queues can develop. So, top tip, 'loiter' in the vicinity as NO announcements are given advising when you can embark - you don't want to miss the ship!
Passing through the check-point was simple enough as it was just a case of showing my ID (passport in my case) and your ferry booking confirmation - you can either print it off or download it to your mobile device.
A web of elevated pedestrian walkways give access to the numerous berths so ensure you know what berth your ship is on by referring to the terminal monitors prior to passing through security.
There is no shelter from the elements so if you happen to be travelling on a day when it's raining ensure you have suitable clothing - it can be a very long walk to the ship!
Unusually no further checks are made so once you've finally made it to the ship you're free to just walk aboard via the cavernous vehicle decks.
Clearly marked routes direct foot passengers towards one of the numerous stairwells which give access to the main passenger decks.
Accessing the ships main accommodation through the maze of corridors and steep narrow stairs I headed straight out onto the terraced exterior decks which seemingly cascade down to the Mediterranean Sea to watch the sun slip below the horizon as we departed Genoa.
With views like this why would you want to travel from A to B any other way?!
Clearly a novice move, I was overtaken at every opportunity by seasoned deck class passengers who knew exactly where they wanted to sleep and grab the best spot.
Seasoned deck class passengers were notably VERY inventive as:
some brought hammocks and knew exactly the best place to secure them on the exterior deck railings.
Some brought tents and 'pitched up' on the exterior decks in areas where crosswinds weren't an issue.
Some even brought inflatable double mattresses and used the onboard power sockets to inflate them by a motorised pump!
Others simply reserved their space on the sofas or carpet in one of the onboard lounges and curled up next to their pet dog. That's right, you can even take your four legged fury friend on your holidays too!
Ingenious - total respect! I love it!
For me however, I was content to sleep under the stars owing to the warm summer breeze, flat moonlit sea and clear sky allowing the stars to shine brightly; I couldn't refuse - what an experience!
I chose the lido as my 'bedroom' of choice because the large glazed sides prevented the gentle breeze from tickling my hairy legs plus, the subtle pounding of the ships engines could be heard from the adjacent funnel casing which I always find very relaxing.
The lido can be accessed from a dedicated stairwell and fortunately for me no other passengers ventured up here so I had the whole area to myself which also benefited from having a WC so essentially I had my own private bathroom (LOL).
The lido is great area to rest but is better utilized during a day time crossing when you can lounge poolside in the blazing sun and have a cheeky drink from the poolside bar.
Travelling deck class is a fun experience; you'll save money and you'll have the opportunity to take some unusual selfies (don't forget to checkout my Instagram) !
If you do get up during the night I'd recommend having a wonder around the exterior decks to breath in the fresh sea air - you probably wont see many other passengers so you'll feel like you're the only person in the world plus on a clear day you'll see the lights of Corsica glowing in the distance as you cruise south.
Fancy a hot beverage or snack at silly o'clock in the morning?
Well, Moby Lines cater for deck class passengers by offering a 24hour snack bar which can be found within the family lounge.
Tea and coffee, plus soft drinks, confectionary and savoury snacks are available.
Within the same area it's also worth noting the children's playroom is truly excellent so, if you are travelling with children they'll have a great time both day and night.
The soft padded flooring looked very inviting to sleep on alas, it's not possible to sleep in here if travelling deck class.
The snack bar also sells a range of bottled alcohol so if you fancy a cheeky beer at silly o'clock in the morning....well, you are on holiday after all!
Like the sound of deck class travel?
Well, here's another cheeky top tip for you.
If sleeping on the floor or outside isn't your thing, head down to the bowels of the ship where aboard Moby Otta you'll find several secluded pullman seat lounges down on Deck 2 which is below the vehicle decks and waterline.
Normally accessed at a nominal charge there's no door code or key code required to gain entry so, go and have a cheeky look as you may find a spare seat within these rather claustrophobic lounges so you can sleep in here without having to pay the charge.
Also, being right down by the waterline you shouldn't feel the motion of the ship if the sea is a bit choppy.
Now, for the sake of transparency I got no sleep what so ever - not even a wink - and the reason was because I wasn't prepared so, here's A2B via Sea® handy hints and tips:
Firstly, travelling during August the interior aircon was set to high; it was absolutely freezing inside the ship! In fact it was much warmer outside so ensure you dress appropriately. Take a pair of soft jogging trousers and a hoodie to snuggle up in or perhaps a small light weight blanket.
Secondly, interior lights are not dimmed at night so, if sleeping inside bring an eye mask to block out the light.
Also, I would strongly suggest you download a movie (or four) to watch on your personal device in the event you can't sleep - I didn't and very much regretted it!
Being a voyage of around ten hours Moby Otta does offer an array of cabin accommodation if you don't mind loosening the purse strings a little so you can have some degree of comfort. These can be booked in advance or onboard (subject to availability).
Some cabins are on the luxurious side and have a TV and sofa whilst others are more modest which is great if you're on a budget.
Having had no sleep whatsoever I cannot tell you the thrill I had seeing the sunrise early the next morning - so beautiful!
Amazingly other passengers also headed straight outside and joined me to absorb the morning summer heat and even eat breakfast alfresco as the stunning coastline passed by.
Passenger facilities are primarily located on two decks with cabins forward and amenities aft so Moby Otta is easy to navigate.
However, being nearly half a century old her lower decks are a maze of narrow corridors and stairwells which I personally loved exploring.
At the centre of them all, on Deck 5, the corridors converge at the main foyer which spans [almost] the entire width of the ship.
Just like the snack bar upstairs, the reception is also open throughout the voyage so if you have any queries or concerns the personnel here will be able to assist both day and night.
A small gift shop is located to one side of the foyer which offers a range of reading material and travel accessories whilst on the other is a secure locker where you can charge your mobile device; a range of charger cables are available in each drawer for differing makes and models of phone.
If you have walking difficulties there are several surprisingly spacious elevators which link all decks; essentially time capsules you'll find some original décor from the ships' heritage - or at least many decades - with wood panelling, paintings and mural featuring a DFDS emblem.
If undertaking the overnight voyage like me you'll find the ships' facilities close at around 2300hrs and reopen for breakfast at around 0630hrs.
Speaking of breakfast lets take a look at the food offering aboard.
Although a small ship, in addition to the aforementioned snack bar which is open 24/7 there are three actual dining rooms.
At the stern of the lower passenger deck is a large, spacious, informal restaurant. Periodically open for breakfast, lunch and dinner meals are served counter style from a wrap around servery. All dishes are beautifully presented but, are very expensive. As such I would recommend taking some snacks with you for the journey (the shopping centre in the Genoa ferry terminal is the ideal place to make these purchases).
Natural light floods into the seating area through the large windows which are on three sides and with a décor of royal blue and beige, I personally get a seaside vibe.
The servery counter is located close to the main entrance so long queues can develop at peak times and spread down the adjacent window lined corridor so, if you intend to eat here get here early.
This corridor spans most of the length of this deck past the Panorama Bar to the passenger cabins located at the forward end.
Those with a keen eye may notice the DFDS blue stripes on the window lined tables - an artifact from many decades ago.
Pizzas are available from Pizza Point on the upper deck where you can dine next to a large model of a Loony Tunes character which younger passengers will adore.
Great sea views can be obtained from the raised stools adjacent to the windows.
A very well appointed a la carte restaurant is positioned on the main deck and is separated from the main thoroughfare by floor to ceiling glazed screens which prevent any noise from those passing by.
Large and spacious, the interior is subdivided into smaller zones to create intimacy.
The décor of royal blue and chalk white creates a very luxurious ambience both by day and night.
The large show lounge dominates the amidship section of the upper deck and is a great place to relax with friends and family.
The area benefits from a stage, dance floor, clusters of window lined tub chairs and low laying bench style sofas decorated in burnt orange coloured fabric enabling those at the back of the lounge to view the stage.
During my voyage a large ceiling mounted projector screen was erected showing [what appeared to be] a live music event taking place in Italy.
Continental breakfast is served within this show lounge so, if you don't fancy queuing in the self service restaurant downstairs you could always grab a croissant and coffee from here where the queues are much shorter and the seats are more comfortable alas, the prices are the same.
Two pin power sockets to charge mobile devices are in very limited supply aboard Moby Otta but, you will find a couple cheekily hiding behind the curtains of the show lounge alternatively bring a power bank with you or use those down by the reception desk.
Time for a pre or post dinner drink?
More akin to a traditional British pub with its dark and heavy looking wooden fixtures & fittings plus stained glass, the Admiral bar is an unusual feature on an Italian ferry which seemingly embraces Loony Tunes judging by its hull artwork and décor however, as a brit for me this little touch of home made the UK feel not too far away which I appreciated.
Right on schedule we arrive at Olbia, nestling amongst the modern giant cruise ferries on a vacant berth.
Once the vehicle decks were accessible foot passengers are called down to disembark via the stern ramp and proceed towards an awaiting shuttle bus which took us to the ferry terminal where a good coffee and cost effective breakfast - cheaper than onboard -could be purchased.
Olbia town can be reached on foot via the E840 dual carriageway in around thirty minutes.
Don't forget to put on your sun screen as the sun reflecting off the surrounding concrete of the wide pavement is very intense due to little or no protection from the occasional palm trees; I made the walk in 40+ degree heat.
The walk is definitely worth it as independent hotels and attractive pedestrianised streets lined with independent shops and restaurants await.
In short, travelling deck class is THE most cost effective way of travelling from A to B if you don't mind forgoing your creature comforts [comfortable bed].
Why not [virtually] come with me on my trip. Here's my vlog:
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