I couldn’t leave the Greek Isles without visiting SeaJets SUPERSTAR, a 49yr old veteran from the English Channel operating between the Belgian Port of Ostend and the British Port of Dover between 1974 and 1991, now living her twilight years in the Aegean sun.
Better known to those in northern European waters, SuperStar is the former Prince Laurent - a true 1970's car ferry and although massively rebuilt to suit the needs of Greek Island operations, there are still some areas of her original guise which remain to this day which I find both refreshing and fascinating as 'they' don't make them like this anymore.
Between 1974 and 1991 Prince Laurent operated for Sealink, Townsend Thoresen and P&O European Ferries, the later marketed as Ostend Dover Line.
A2B via Sea would like to offer its sincere thanks to Freddy Tourlemain for use of these photographs which feature throughout this blog.
Here is a photograph taken by A2B via Sea in her last year of service on the Ostend/Dover route (1991).
Currently operating from Rafina (a port north east of Athens) to Andros, Tinos, Mykonos and Paros, for me I started my adventure in the later and worked my way north spending around seven hours aboard.
Let's start in Paros. If you have read my previous blogs you will know I have a fondness for this port as it is only moments away from the bustling waterfront town by foot - why fly to the island and land miles away when the ferry will take you right into the heart of the action?
Paros is a charming town with a myriad of waterfront restaurants and bars with a maze of narrow alleyways hiding a vast range of boutique shops with vibrant bougainvillea tumbling down the white washed walls.
Having spent a comfortable night in a very affordable family run hotel only ten minutes away from the ferry port, in the morning I awoke early and extremely excited to be travelling aboard the old channel car ferry.
Having obtained my mandatory strong morning coffee in a local outlet I made my way to the port.
Unlike most northern European ports Paros doesn't have sprawling terminal buildings. Instead, here on this small Greek island, a single structure containing individual 'lanes' allows foot passengers to queue for their designated ferry - hand written signage on a wall mounted 'whiteboard' shows which lane passengers should queue in.
Please note, there are no WC facilities nor beverage machines therefore, please refresh yourself in one of the outlets in town before proceeding to the port.
Upon arrival it was so good to see my old friend sitting silently adjacent to the quayside - looking in magnificent condition.
At this point I realised how much she has been rebuilt since leaving the English Channel in 1991, some thirty years ago. In my archives I found a photograph of her alongside her berth in Ostend taken in the late 1970's - in fact the oldest photograph I have in my collection. Look how her stern has been rebuilt.
Me (Instagram: thebearded_blogger) being me, I arrived far too early for my departure however, having said that I wasn't the first to arrive for boarding - some two hours before departure. Fortunately for us the sun appeared over the coastline and illuminated the port in warming sunshine whilst we patiently waited.
Like many ferries in Aegean waters, foot passenger embarkation is via a lowered stern vehicle ramp where upon boarding your ticket is checked by a member of crew before you ascend to passenger areas via an elevator.
A point worth noting is SuperStar also has a dedicated foot passenger gangway adjacent to the vehicle ramp therefore, if a busy sailing, foot passengers and vehicles do not intermingle, although on the port its self they do so please be careful.
One hour before sailing we embark SuperStar - let's get aboard!
Grab a cuppa, curl up and [virtually] come aboard.
As we ascend the escalator at the aft end of the ship we arrive at the forward facing ships reception and Pursers Office with the counter service café/bar opposite which serves a selection of hot and cold beverages, alcoholic drinks and snacks such as pies, baguettes and crisps.
Below: ascending the escalator from the vehicle deck
Below: the ships' Pursers Office facing forward with access to the exterior deck astern
Below: the counter service café / bar facing aft
In-between is a very large and cavernous space dominated by seating with vibrant orange coloured upholstery and many tables; the port and starboard sides are raised by a single step with a waist height barrier surrounding the perimeter to prevent falls, although no hazardous tape on the upper edge marking the access points to prevent falls which I continuously seemed to trip on every time I went to my seat.
Wipe clean wood effect laminate flooring dominates throughout.
Whilst operating across the English Channel from 1974 to 1991 this area was a small restaurant before being extended aft – if you look carefully you can see the two differing shaped windows within the lounge marking the boundary between original and new. I noted that the new windows are directly adjacent to the raised flooring which is where the mooring lines would have been located.
Below: the differing window styles - the original windows (left) and new (right) adjacent to the raised flooring.
Below: new windows lower left and the original right, separated by the vent.
Below: the aforementioned café/seating/reception occupies the area which was the mooring deck - the original windows evident.
Below: original deck plan from the 1970's showing the area in mention
Let's continue forward and explore.
Two fore/aft corridors located port and starboard give access to the facilities on this deck.
As we walk forward we pass a small office and shop within the aft hall. Although firmly closed for the duration of my voyage, peaking through the windows the selection of products seemed good; namely light clothing and a selection of jewelry.
WC facilities are opposite and again, although massively overhauled, still mark the position of the original facilities.
Proceeding forward again, two long corridors dominate the port and starboard sides and benefit from giant sofa alcoves for friends, family and groups to relax and replace the British Rail style fore/aft seating which I remember from the last time I travelled aboard this ship between Dover and Ostend in 1991.
A point worth noting is the adjacent windows are the original ones from 1974.
These low backed seats are extremely comfortable.
Mirrored wall panels effectively reflect the natural light from the opposite windows.
The original information desk is still very much evident within the forward hall although it has now been boarded over and is now used as a storage area for crew use.
Below: original deck plan
Below: same area today
The forward end of Deck 5 is home to the full width bar/lounge.
The same wood effect flooring and cooling grey and beige tones of the seating upholstery found elsewhere continues into this vast space which is effectively subdivided by attractive etched glass partitions creating homely and snug areas for groups and families alike.
The curved bar is located aft and faces forward into the lounge - like the café at the stern of Deck 5 this bar was also open throughout the voyage providing hot and cold beverages.
A magnificent feature of this bar is the fact it has its own exterior deck overlooking the bow - something which is not often found on Greek ferries - affording simply stunning views of the passing coastline.
Above on Deck 6 the 'Afrodite Lounge' can be found at the forward end - seemingly a private facility where only passengers who pay an upgrade may enter, on my journey due to low passenger numbers everyone was permitted access.
Accessed via the forward stairs which are again the original ones though highly refitted, we pass a reception desk where tickets are checked.
Glossy wall panels decorated in rich red create a modern contemporary and sophisticated vibe as we enter the lounge.
Its highly deep pile carpeting, window length soft sofas, family booths and high-backed tub chairs create an absurdly comforting environment and as few people seemingly venture up here I was assured of a peaceful and relaxing journey.
The bar is located at the aft end.
Before we continue aft on Deck 6 let's go back to the forward stairs and head up.
Mirrored surrounds, glass balustrades and stainless steel handrail effectively give the illusion this narrow stairwell is larger than it actually is.
From here we can gain access to the exterior decks - no other passenger spaces so, we'll go back down to Deck 6 and walk aft.
Behind the 'Afrodite' bar and it's reception are a series of cabins which were installed on what was exterior deck space when Prince Laurent transferred from the English Channel to the Aegean and if you look carefully from the quayside you can see the weld marks between the old and new.
Below: area highlighted is now occupied by cabins
Below: area now occupied by cabins - an exterior deck as shown on this original deck plan.
Below: weld marks clearly shown where the cabins have been added
Below: cabin block
However, some original cabins can be found further aft on this deck – just ascend the aft stairs from Deck 5 by the shop or transit the exterior deck as I did.
These aft cabins are easily identified as original 1970's as the décor within the cabin corridors is different to the newer cabins aboard – much narrower and differing door colours.
Opposite these cabins are two reclining seat lounges (port and starboard) occupying what was exterior deck space during SuperStar's time operating on the Straight of Dover from 1974 to 1991.
All individual seats face forwards and are decorated in an aqua coloured fabric. The carpeting is of very good quality and the large windows flood the area with natural light.
Wall murals depict scenes 'through a window'. Ironically, this would have been the area where her original windows would have been located.
Between these two lounges are a series of cabins which once was a lounge.
Finally at the aft of Deck 6 is the ‘deck class’ accommodation – bare steel decking with floor to ceiling glazed panels allowing views of the passing vistas and a covered roof for added protection from the hot Aegean heat.
The stairs in the picture below give direct access to the aft café and Pursers office down on Deck 5.
Deck 7
A counter style bar/café at the stern and accompanying tables and chairs allows passengers to dine alfresco although this was closed throughout my voyage.
A point worth noting is the ships' original aft mast is still clearly evident and has been somewhat encapsulated by the additions of further glazed panelling and roof.
Below, a photograph from the 1980's: the aft mast and the area which is now an alfresco café/bar
Below: today - the original mast can be identified to the right of the next two pictures.
SuperStar offers a considerable amount of exterior deck accommodation – at the time of writing she offered more than some of the newer vessels I had travelled aboard during my Greek Island Hopping vacation – see YouTube Channel 'A2B via Sea on TV'.
In fact, one can circumnavigate the whole of Deck 7 and literally do a lap of the whole deck.
Whilst meandering around the deck breathing in the wonderful sea air take a look at the ships' windows - not too peer in of course, but just to marvel at the fact that these windows actually date from 1974. Just look at the rivets and the fact they actually open.
Also, whilst having a wander, one can also stand by the ships bridge wings and watch the Captain and officers manoeuvring the vessel in port. Both young and old alike will find this fascinating and will make for a good selfi!
The primary exterior deck area is at the stern of the upper most deck surrounding the original 1970's aft mast.
Here is a photograph of the original mast and compare it with the following - the position of the radar is now the roof of the deck below. I love a bit of history!
A small domed skylight was located close to the funnel to enable light to illuminate the deck below however, new crew accommodation and machinery vents have meant its removal.
One can also circumnavigate the funnel which although partially rebuilt since she left the Dover Straight in 1991, still has her original Regie voor Maritime Transport (RMT) logo visible through the paint, which I was completely obsessed with as this one logo has so much history.
Only those in the know will grasp the significance of this – the last remaining icon of Belgian maritime still evident thousands of miles away in Aegean waters.
Here are three photos of her funnel from several decades ago as a reminder followed by photos I took whilst aboard.
The good thing about sailing aboard SuperStar is you know you are aboard a ‘real old school ferry’; the open topped life boats on the ships sides (not the capsules you find on modern ferries), old style windows with riveted sides, uneven flooring, steep and narrow stair wells giving access between the decks and a full promenade where one can literally walk a circuit around the ship enjoying the views without the need to ‘cut across’ the ship plus, the entire upper deck is accessible from the bridge wings to the funnel and the mast – no area is out of bounds.
The journey from Paros to Rafina is around seven hours. One can, of course, disembark at any of the islands enroute or like me undertake the entire voyage.
Mykonos
Tinos
Andros
Rafina
Here is my journey vlog - curl up and [virtually] come aboard.
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In closing a voyage aboard Superstar is a must if you are visiting the islands of Greece as she provides an 'old school' ferry experience. There are no gaming arcades, burger bars, signage offering random promotions or major global conglomerates with outlets onboard - there isn't even a children's playroom; SuperStar is a simple, extremely well maintained, small, robust ferry with a very 'classy' and sophisticated interior where one can simply curl up with a good book in an oversized armchair and just let the world pass by - absolute bliss!
Rafina is accessible by public bus from Athens; a journey of around 45minutes. Alternatively make your way to Paros island from Piraeus – a journey of around 4hrs – then catch the ferry from there. Of course, you can join her at either Andros, Tinos or Mykonos.
Top tip, which ever port you embark at get to the port early as if you join at either Rafina or Paros (the starting ports on her long voyage) you can actually embark around 60min before departure to enable you to find a comfortable spot to call your own.
At intermediate ports she literally arrives and departs within ten minutes with crowds of passengers flocking to her stern door to embark as you will see in my YouTube video below.
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