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Moby Zaza - classic ferry travel at its finest

Writer's picture: The Bearded BloggerThe Bearded Blogger

The rumble of the engines, the smell of fuel, the continuous vibration of internal fixtures & fittings - I love it! A2B via Sea® travels aboard a wide range of ferries but has always had a soft spot for 'classic, old school' ships.


Moby ferry departing Bastia, Corsica
Moby Zaza departing Bastia, Corsica

Originally entering service in 1982 as Olau Britannia, Moby Zaza has had a varied career and is now living out her twilight years in the warmth of the Mediterranean which is where I joined her in the Italian Port of Livorno.


Moby ferry at Livorno ferry terminal
Moby Zaza in Livorno, Italy

Regrettably my time in the city was limited however, regular readers of my blogs will know I always have time to find a local bar, particularly one with views of the port.


waterfront bar by marina in Livorno
Waterfront bar in Livorno
Moby Legacy ferry in Livorno, Italy
Moby Legacy in Livorno

Let's get aboard


Livorno is a truly vast port with Moby Ferries and Corsica Ferries utilising berths nearest the city and Grimaldi Lines berthing miles away within the cargo area at the northern end.


I was assured by numerous local residents I could easily walk to the Moby ferry as it was "just across the road" which it is however, passing through the embarkation formalities entailed a considerable amount of walking so top tip, if on foot allow a lot of time.


~ My thanks to Google for the map screen shots ~


Foot passenger route from Livorno city to Moby ferry
Foot passenger route from Livorno city to Moby (Bastia) ferry

Starting off in the city walk north along the main road which separates the port from the city and head to the bridge which crosses the basin which offers a yacht club flanked by beautiful town houses to one side and the Buca del Grano fort to the other.


Via della Cinta Esterna bridge in Livorno, Italy
Via della Cinta Esterna bridge


Sez. Nautica Venezia Yacht Club in Livorno, Italy
Sez. Nautica Venezia Yacht Club
Buca del Grano in Livorno, Italy
Buca del Grano

A flight of stairs will permit access to ground level where you can walk across the Parcheggio SS. Trinita car park towards the ports security gate / vehicle check-in at the southern end of the port.



Parcheggio SS. Trinita car park in Livorno, Italy
Parcheggio SS. Trinita car park with port security gate on the left
Port of Livorno security gate for ferry
Security gate

Pass through the security gate and follow the pedestrian walk way.

There are many ferry routes from Livorno therefore, ensure you are following the signage for 'Bastia' - I was inadvertently directed towards the Olbia ferry by a member of port personnel who was trying to help me.


Although wonderful looking ferries I was not due to travel aboard one of these.


Corsica Ferries and Moby Lines in Livorno, Italy
Corsica Ferries and Moby Lines in Livorno
Corsica Ferries Mega Express Four in Livorno
Mega Express Four in Livorno
Moby Lines Moby Fantasy in Livorno, Italy
Moby Fantasy in Livorno

Continuing walking you'll pass the terracotta coloured ferry terminal which offers a WC and surrounding coffee shops along with information desks for Moby Lines on the upper level. However, this is not where foot passengers check-in for the Bastia ferry.



Livorno Biglietteria
Livorno Biglietteria

Walking (a long way) along the pedestrian path passing Moby Zaza on your left, present yourself at the vehicle security gate. Top tip, if you'd prefer not to walk all this way which, from the aforementioned bridge will take around 45minutes to this point, just get a taxi from the city to here.



Security personnel will check your booking confirmation and passport / (ID) before allowing you to proceed into the restricted area of the port.


Walk back towards ferry, essentially doubling back on yourself, to the vehicle check-in. That's right, even though you are travelling on foot you'll still need to go to the vehicle check-in.



Your booking confirmation barcode is scanned and passport (ID) checked at which point a boarding pass is printed.


Finally, walk towards the pontoon and HOORAH, you made it!



Moby Zaza in Livorno, Italy
Moby Zaza in Livorno port
Livorno ferry terminal, Italy
Loading pontoon at Livorno port

As you've probably guessed, it does take a long time to go through these formalities, seemingly as vehicles rather than foot passengers are prioritised. Don't let this put you off as it's all part of the adventure of backpacking - just allow sufficient time and prepare yourself for the walk or, get a taxi.


Foot passengers are escorted over the lowered stern vehicle ramp and along the vehicle deck towards the central stairs - a bright yellow painted path directs pedestrians.

Despite her age the vehicle deck was exceptionally clean with no evident oily residue.


Ascending the narrow stair well towards the main passenger decks it was obvious Moby Zaza is an old ship as newer vessels offer more space and brighter lighting. On a personal note however, I love this - so much character!


stairs on old ferry from car deck
Access from vehicle deck to passenger facilities
Bayeux Tapestry art work on Moby Zaza ferry
Bayeux Tapestry artwork
hallway and stairs on 1980's ferry
Access from vehicle decks to passenger facilities
steep stairwell on old ferry in Mediterranean
Steep stairwell to vehicle decks

Passenger amenities are primarily located on two decks with cabins forward and facilities astern; Deck 5 is the location of the ships' reception.


Moby Zaza ferry directional sign
Moby Zaza directional sign
Moby Zaza ferry deck plan
Moby Zaza deck plan

A giant void area - this is what foot passengers encounter when they arrive on Deck 5 from the vehicle deck.


Moby Zaza ferry lobby and reception
Lobby and reception desk

A small unassuming reception desk is located in one corner however, you'll receive the warmest of welcomes from the personnel who are more than happy to assist with any queries you may have.


Moby Zaza ferry reception
Reception

Being the only public facility on this deck, cabins are located both fore and aft.


cabin corridor on Moby Zaza ferry
Typical cabin corridor

A set of stairwells with mirrored walls and overlayed brushed stainless steel ships' wheel give access to the upper decks where the public facilities are located.


spacious lobby on Moby Zaza ferry
Spacious lobby
Spacious lobby on Moby Zaza ferry
Spacious lobby on Deck 5
Mirrored stairwell on Moby Zaza ferry
Mirrored stairwell

With cabins located forward, Deck 7 offers two dining rooms and a small gift shop, all accessed from a spacious foyer.


Deck 7 hall aboard Moby Lines Moby Zaza
Deck 7 hall
A.O. Restaurant and gift shop aboard Moby Zaza
Entrance to A.O. Restaurant and gift shop

The shop is small though perfectly formed and offers a range of reading material, gifts and souvenirs.


Shop on Moby Lines Moby Zaza
Gift shop

The formal a la carte restaurant, unusually called A.O, was closed throughout the voyage and I was unable to gain entry however, if the façade is anything to go by with its rich oak colouring with polished gold inlay and chequered mirrored ceiling, the dining room must be lovely.


A la carte restaurant aboard Moby Zaza
Entrance to a la carte restaurant

For a more informal, though substantial meal, head for the self service restaurant which is open periodically for breakfast, lunch and dinner.


A wide aisle of hard flooring gives access to the servery which is positioned at the furthest end and offers numerous counters with well presented meals.


informal dining on Moby Lines ferry
Access to servery

The seating area is bright and spacious and offers booth style seating with comfortable sofas along with free-standing tables and chairs in both two and four seat configurations.


bright and spacious self service dining room aboard Moby Zaza ferry
Self service dining room
Spacious seating area on ferry
Spacious seating area

Looking for a snack or cheeky burger? Head upstairs where you'll find a fantastic pizzeria with full Loony Tunes décor - the kids will love it as you can even dine with giant characters!


Loony Tunes themed snack bar aboard Moby Zaza ferry
Loony Tunes themed snack bar

The seating area is in a 'U' shaped configuration around the main servery and offers a separate gaming arcade to one side.


colourful dining room on ferry
Colourful dining experience
Gaming arcade on Moby Lines ferry
Gaming arcade
colourful seating area aboard Moby Zaza ferry
Seating area

A giant children's play area for those younger passengers can be found within this area and with neighbouring seating, parents and guardians can rest assured the children are safe.


giant multi-level children's playroom on ferry
Multi-level children's playroom

Moby Zaza offers two bars however, assumingly due to low passenger numbers the Admiral Bar was closed during my voyage although, the comfortable seating is still accessible.


British themed Admiral pub aboard Italian Moby Lines ferry
Admiral Bar
British themed Admiral Bar aboard Moby Lines ferry
Admiral pub

Resembling a British pub, dark wood features heavily plus atmospheric black and white pictures of nautical scenes adorn the walls to remind us we are actually aboard a ferry.


social family booths in British themed pub
Social family booths
black and white nautical themed pictures
Nautical themed pictures throughout

Accessed from the aforementioned Admiral Bar at the stern of this deck you'll find the show lounge; an impressive facility with an arc wall of glass behind the stage allowing continuously changing vistas when no entertainment is provided.


stylish black and white framed action photos
Access to Show Lounge

Unlike show lounges aboard more modern ferries which tend to have terraced seating, aboard Moby Zaza this facility is on a single level, although the area above the stage is double height which cleverly hides lighting equipment for performances.


Either side of the stage are large wall mounted flat screen TV's.


show lounge aboard Mediterranean ferry
Show lounge

Localised carpeting zones the seating which consists of sofas and tub chairs whilst wide aisles of patterned floor tiles provide a thoroughfare to the doors either side of the stage which give direct access to the exterior deck.


tub chairs in show lounge aboard Moby Zaza
Access to the exterior deck

Exceptionally spacious, this facility is open-plan with cleverly designed discrete posts holding up the ceiling above to ensure every passenger has line of sight of the stage.


Although its interior could do with a refit as much of the upholstery has lost its vivid colouring, this facility is a fantastic social environment where you can easily chat to fellow passengers and exchange stories of your travel adventures.


Moby Lines show lounge tub chairs
Show lounge seating areas

Designed in an L-shape formation, to one side you'll find a quiet lounge where, if you'd prefer, you can enjoy a more peaceful environment.


red window lined sofa and tub chairs
Tub chairs and window lined sofas

Beautifully sculpted polished chrome stools adorn an area adjacent to the bar where you can have a good chat with the extremely friendly personnel who will show a genuine interest and ask you about your holiday and adventures.


modern chrome bar stools
Modern bar stools
Moby Zaza show lounge with stage and bar
Moby Zaza show lounge and bar

Being of a certain age Moby Zaza offers a large amount of exterior deck space on numerous levels which is great for stretching your legs and breathing in the fresh Mediterranean sea air.


Beach style deck chairs are dotted around although the majority can be found at the stern of the ship - ideal for grabbing a beer from the adjacent show lounge and relaxing in the sun - though not for me on this overcast and blustery journey!


Daffy Duck on Moby Lines ferry waving goodbye to Livorno in Italy
Daffy Duck waving goodbye
open lifeboat aboard old ferry
Moby Zaza crossing between Livorno and Bastia
relaxing in a deck chair on a ferry
Lounging on deck
space and fresh air aboard a Mediterranean ferry
Spacious exterior decks
ferry departing Livorno Italy
Departing Livorno, Italy
passenger stretching legs on a Mediterranean ferry
Spacious exterior decks
elevated viewing area on a ferry
Elevated viewing area
dual curved staircase on a ferry
Dual curved staircase
marine evacuation systems on a ferry
Plenty of space to wonder

Travelling with your four legged fury friend? They too are welcome aboard Moby Zaza!


beautiful husky dog with Daffy Duck on a ferry
Pet friendly travel

Dog kennels can be found on the exterior deck adjacent to the feature window of the show lounge.


pet friendly travel - kennels on a ferry
Dog kennels

Following the +/- six hour journey the sight of the beautiful town of Bastia on the Corsican island coming into sight through the haze drew crowds onto the exterior decks.


The colourful pastel shades of the hillside buildings surrounded by pine and olive trees with the yachts of the marina below made for perfect photographs.


Bastia, Corsica
Bastia, Corsica
super yacht departing Bastia marina
Entrance to Bastia marina
colourful hillside buildings in Bastia, Corsica
Colourful hillside buildings
Bastia yacht marina in Corsica
Bastia marina

Foot passenger disembarkation was easy; everyone congregating by the reception desk on Deck 5 until the vehicle deck was empty at which time you can simply walk ashore and into town via a security gate within the port's perimeter fence - no need for shuttle busses or passing through customs / immigration formalities and most importantly, no need for lengthy airport transfers.


Waterfront bars, restaurants and local hotels are just a few minutes walk away from the ferry!


alfresco dining in a waterfront restaurant in Bastia, Corsica
Waterfront dining in Bastia

In closing Moby Zaza is a great little ship crammed with plenty of facilities to keep everyone amused, particularly families owing to the range of dining areas and the truly excellent playroom. Plus, if you need a little rest why not pop to the reception and hire a cabin so you'll arrive at your destination refreshed.


Like what you see?

Why not checkout my journey vlog and [virtually] come aboard.



Why not follow my European ferry travel adventures. Here's my Instagram link



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