The reincarnation of a Saint
- The Bearded Blogger
- 10 hours ago
- 17 min read
Let's visit Albania with a ferry journey from Italy!
I travel all over Europe using ferries to get from A to B to show tourists around the world that when visiting our magnificent & diverse continent, the best way to travel is by using the humble ferry.
But, undertaking a two day 3500 mile round trip to spend seven and a half hours aboard one ship, a bit extreme, yes? Well, this is one very special ship!
Built by the world-famous Harland & Wolff ship yard in Belfast in the 1980’s, this vessel would operate the so called Sealink British Ferries ‘Flagship Service’ across the English Channel between Dover and Calais as St.Christopher before being renamed Stena Antrim and heading north west to the Irish Sea.
Now named European Star, she can be found living her twilight years in the Adriatic Sea operating a leisurely seven and a half hour voyage between Italy and Albania.
She has been transformed beyond recognition to modify her interior from a 'day ferry' to one which will comfortably allow her passengers to have a good sleep during the overnight voyage and being a small vessel, this is no mean-feet!
As such, I have included my archive photos in this blog to effectively show her interior 'before' & 'after', hence the title of this blog - The Reincarnation of a Saint.
It’s January 2026 and I arrive at the Italian waterfront city of Brindisi.
Less pretentious than perhaps better known destinations on Italy's west coast, Brindisi is seemingly a city of two halves offering a very attractive older quarter flanking the southern side of the bay offering a wide waterfront promenade with a more cosmopolitan centre located around the cities railway station.
Plenty of signage directs tourists to the main sights which are hidden within the myriad of streets which are just waiting to be explored.
Narrow & steep hillside roads paved in uneven granite boulders give access to the old town where vehicles carefully navigate blind bends where pedestrians tend to emerge from the numerous independently run pastel coloured pavement cafes and bars.
A stroll along the waterfront allows pedestrians to 'blow away the cobwebs', especially during a brisk easterly January wind but never fear, there are numerous bars and cafe's to shelter and enjoy an espresso for as little as one Euro - if the caffeine doesn't give you a boost the excellent price will!
Being January I was anticipating some rain but not the torrential down-pours received; the floor laid blocks within the old town becoming extremely slippery as torrents of fast flowing water cascaded over.
Retreating to the city centre to get the bus to the port I was able to stroll up the main boulevard which is flanked by towering palm trees, attractive wrought iron lamp posts and a selection of independently run restaurants, bars and shops.
At the far end of the boulevard is Brindisi Centrale, the main train station where you can jump aboard the bus to the Costa Morena Ferry Terminal - the bus stop being called Piazza Crispi Stazione FS.
Within the station not only will you find WC facilities (make sure you have a one Euro coin to gain access), but also a bar where hot & cold beverages, alcohol and snacks can be purchased.
This is also where you can purchase the bus ticket to get you to the ferry terminal if you don't want to download the app, although you can pay cash directly to the driver if you wish.
Operating a regular and reliable service, at the time of writing the busses to the Costa Morena ferry terminal operated a strict thirty minute schedule which effectively connected the ferry port with the train station, a journey of around fifteen minutes.
The bus also continues to the airport which is around twenty minutes away from Brindisi Centrale railway station.
You can actually see the ferries from the airport but, of course, you have to circumnavigate the large bay where the route gives a glimpse into areas of Brindisi tourists wouldn't normally see.
Costa Morena ferry terminal is located within the main commercial port as such, you’ll be greeted by a rather austere environment with numerous dilapidated porta-cabins housing who knows what, rubbish and debris on the sidings, seemingly abandoned commercial vehicles lining the roadside and rundown port buildings - certainly a shock compared to the beautiful architecture of the city.
The bus will drop you off on the port boundary, just a short walk down the hill from the ferry terminal - the base for Starlines which operates too Albania and Grimaldi which operates too Greece - simply walk back up the hill and ascend a short flight of stairs.
Following the pedestrian black and white walk way you’ll see the ferry terminal – the only building in the vicinity so you can’t miss it.
However, the building is very run down with a concrete façade which wouldn’t look out of place in a 1980's Cold War movie!
Broken roof mounted signage, filthy windows and flaky paint adorn the exterior; the grey rain filled clouds and cold January temperature just adding to the depressing vibe.
Inside you’re greeted by a security guard who informed me the Starlines check-in desk wouldn’t open until 1730hrs with embarkation commencing at 2100hrs at the earliest therefore, I spent a total of around seven hours within this cold, unforgiving environment so, believe me don’t arrive too early!
The terminal bar/coffee shop/gaming arcade opens at 1700hrs and, in fine weather, you'll find a seating area within the terminal forecourt where you can view European Star in the distance - and believe me, having been waiting seven hours I couldn't wait to get aboard!
The check-in process was very swift and easy; simply a case of handing over my passport and a print-out of my booking confirmation which stated my reference number and date of travel.
Retracing my steps back to where the bus initially dropped me off, it was necessary to pass through numerous security, customs and immigration check points, all asking to see my passport and boarding pass therefore, keep your documentation in your pocket for easy access.
Fortunately, as there were only a few foot passenger travelling the process was relatively quick however, I can see why I was advised to check-in at the terminal at least three hours prior to departure.
If travelling as a foot passenger it's a long walk from the initial check point to the ferry so, be prepared for this plus, if it's raining bring a brollie!
After the final check point you are pointed in the direction of the ferry and allowed to walk freely; the unmistakable stern view of European Star square on in front of me – I couldn’t wait to get aboard and see how the ship has changed internally.
Foot passenger embarkation is via the vehicle deck so keep your distance from vehicles manoeuvring as these are reversed onto the ship.
Crossing the lowered stern ramp, boarding passes are checked once again before ascending many flights of stairs to the main passenger deck; a yellow painted path effectively directs passengers to one of the main stairwells.
For those travelling with heavy luggage a dedicated storage room is available off the vehicle deck, though it’s necessary to clamber through a small watertight door with a knee height sill - for some reason I had images of the interior of a submarine in my minds eye.
First impressions count and from the moment I boarded European Star I instinctively knew I was in for a treat as the vehicle deck and stairwell were spotless; fresh clean paint and despite the torrential rain no slippery oily residue.
Her upper vehicle deck has barely changed since the last time I was aboard, thirty years prior.
Foot passengers are directed to the stairwell located at the aft end of Deck 4 - closest to the vehicle ramp - on the starboard side.
Although just a thoroughfare I was highly impressed by the décor with its neutral tones on the paintwork and inlaid lighting effectively directing passengers to Deck 7.
This was a major contrast to how I remembered the ship three decades ago.
Arriving at the stern of Deck 7 the ships’ information desk was directly in front of me. Smiling and well presented stewards were literally lined up ready to assist those passengers who needed it - what a welcome!
To be honest I was rather overwhelmed as memories from thirty years ago were flooding back to me from the last time I was aboard; the reception desk being the same, though the décor having changed considerably.
Overnight cabin accommodation isn’t mandatory therefore, for those of you on a budget you are able to reserve a seat and sleep within one of the public lounges however, having had no sleep for a lengthy period and suffering from foot rot owing to the earlier torrential downpours, I decided to try my luck and see if a cabin was available to enable me to have a shower and relax in a proper bed.
Fortunately for me a cabin was available and choosing to splash out on one with private ensuite facilities, I drew the line at having a window and settled for an 'inside' cabin after all, it's an overnight voyage.
Now, having been built for the short haul ninety minute Dover to Calais crossing, European Star has been heavily converted to make her more suitable for the relatively lengthy seven and a half hour overnight passage.
As such, many of her public areas have been converted to facilitate cabin accommodation, one of which being the former shopping centre which was located at the stern of Deck 7 and happen to be the location of my cabin.
Escorted through the rather soulless corridors towards my cabin by one of the pleasant stewards, I reminisced how this area used to look back in the 90's.
Obviously designed for function and low maintenance, the corridors are very clinical looking and consist of hospital style off white coloured hard laminate flooring and ivory coloured white washed walls.
Previously the corridors were covered with highly patterned carpeting and flanked by window lined family lounges with a gaming arcade between.
These corridors then gave access to a large shopping centre and the Port of Dover foot passenger gangway beyond.
If you look hard enough you may find some reminders of the ships' heritage, although I'm kicking myself as I didn't establish whether the socket still worked.
Entering my cabin I was pleasantly surprised; spotlessly clean and bright, every bed had a bedside light plus a vanity table, full length mirror and several European two pin power sockets are conveniently located opposite the ensuite bathroom.
Manoeuvring space between the beds is limited however, the two upper berths can be folded onto the walls to create more room.
Having a look around it was at this point I realised something wasn’t quite right, although I couldn't quite put my finger on what it was.....
I guess my suspicions were first alerted when I was given a key to gain access to my cabin – an actual key with a large key fob – rather ‘old school’ as these days you’re normally given a key card but, I appreciated having an actual key.
~ As a side note it should be noted your passport and boarding card are kept by the ships’ purser until you return the key the next morning – think of it as an insurance policy! ~
The large wall mounted mirror strangely had a sticker stating Tallink on the bottom corner - Tallink being the name of a ferry operator in Scandinavia and certainly not one which this ship had previously operated for.
Also, the bed frames of the two lower berths were made of solid wood (mahogany) which you simply don't see these days, with (by all accounts) the blankets being from another ferry operator, Jadrolinja. This trend of 'hand-me-downs' from other ferries would continue elsewhere aboard, but more on that later.
My private ensuite bathroom was exceptionally spacious and offered a WC, sink and shower plus an unusually placed random steel pillar holding up the ceiling - quite handy when sea conditions are rough!
This pillar is in fact an original feature from when this space was a shopping centre.
Looking through my personal archive, many of these pillars were evident in my pictures. If only I'd known when I took these photos that thirty years later I would be taking a shower in the same area!
Additional cabin accommodation is located upstairs on Deck 8 within the former Tea Bar and Motorists Lounge.
The later was once a very comfortable fully carpeted area where crescent shaped sofa booths adorned the windows whilst tub chairs and Pullman style aft facing seating occupied the central section.
Today, artificial soft lighting illuminates lengthy corridors which to be fair has more 'warmth' than the clinical corridors of the deck below.
The former Tea Bar has also been converted into cabin accommodation with all evidence of its history being erased however, a section of red coloured carpeting marks the approximate location of the former counter servery.
Small halls between the two blocks of cabins on Deck 8 offer WC facilities plus give direct access to the exterior decks and the ships reception below on Deck 7.
Other than some minor refurbishment these halls have changed very little since 1996.
For a small ship European Star offers a surprisingly large range of cabin accommodation to suit all budgets from 'inside cabins' [no window] and no bathroom, to pet friendly cabins for those travelling with their four legged friend, plus accessible cabins for those who need additional space.
~ photographs taken after the cabins had been occupied ~
European Star even offers luxury accommodation with a double bed and two additional single beds providing an exceptional amount of space with windows on two sides.
These luxury cabins are located in the 'corners' of what was once the shopping centre either side of the former Port of Dover foot passenger gangway on Deck 7.
The great thing about travelling with Starlines is embarkation commences some two and a half hours prior to departure enabling more time onboard so you can settle into your cabin, familiarise yourself with the ferry and relax before setting sail or, of course, grab a drink from the bar [ you know me by now! ].
So, let’s go and have an explore!
As built European Star offered passenger facilities on two decks (7 & 8) however, having been converted to an overnight ferry passenger facilities are now confined to just two thirds of Deck 7 with all other areas now converted to cabin accommodation.
At the forward end of Deck 7 you’ll find the ships’ main bar which is open until the early hours of the morning plus, reopens early the next morning for your breakfast coffee fix.
Copious amounts of LED lighting, white washed walls, trendy seating and great sound system makes this area the perfect place to relax with friends long into the evening.
By all accounts the seating, albeit reupholstered, is actually from the former Stena Line fast ferry HSS Stena Discovery which operated between the UK and Holland until 2007 and later scrapped in Türkiye (the location where this vessel was overhauled in 2015).
How times have changed!
Originally styled as a traditional British pub in the 90's, these photographs were taken from the same position some 30 years apart.
The bar offers direct access to the exterior decks overlooking the bow permitting unique views plus, the bridge wings above provide some shelter.
Believe me, standing here with a cold beverage watching the mooring team untying the ship as European Star gently pulls away from the berth with virtually no vibration and heads into the Adriatic Sea is absolute bliss.
The last time I stood in this spot was thirty years prior as the vessel crossed the English Channel between Newhaven (UK) and Dieppe (France).
As European Star berths stern first in both Brindisi and Vlore the bow visor is now not raised to allow vehicle access and is therefore presumably welded shut.
For those who fancy a little flutter a gaming arcade is located within the adjacent hall where you can access the main dining room .
From here the rest of the passenger accommodation is very open plan; oversized floor tiles and bulkheads decorated in a chalk-white colour pallet deceives the eye to make the interior larger then it actually is.
An arcade with forward facing airline style seating on localised carpeting dominates the ships starboard side - the result of decorative floor tilling and bright LED lighting is a bright and spacious environment.
Glazed panels allows natural light to filter into the adjacent dining room.
A secondary social lounge dominates the open plan mid ships section of Deck 7 – an area which everyone at some point passes through making it an ideal location to relax and simply ‘people watch’.
The aforementioned lounge actually occupies the area which at one time was the seating area for The Pantry dining room.
To make this lounge a destination in its own right, a half height wall with faux plants effectively divides the lounge from the adjacent thoroughfare.
Faux leather tub chairs which are not fixed to the floor allow passengers to freely move them to ensure groups of all sizes are catered for to create a real social hub.
For those not wishing to hire a cabin during the overnight voyage but prefer not to sleep 'deck class', you can pay the nominal charge and sleep in a reclining chair.
This lounge affords forward facing seating with adjacent side table however, being located next to the social lounge with no real divide, noise can be an issue.
The seats are again a hand-me-down from the former Stena Line fast ferry HSS Stena Discovery and were in fact used in her Stena Plus premium lounge.
This reclining seat lounge is located in what was the former commercial drivers restaurant when the ship was known as Stena Antrim.
Accessed off the forward hall, a single dining room is available aboard European Star which, at the time of my voyage, was open until approximately midnight for evening meals which are served counter-style by friendly members of staff.
I assume the relatively small seating area is an indication this facility never gets too busy and therefore dining here is generally a very relaxed experience.
A limited range of hot food was available on my voyage but, to be fair, my midweek journey in January was exceptionally quiet.
This dining room actually occupies the area of The Pantry when the ship was known as Stena Antrim - the counter being located where beverages were served in the picture below, seating where the island counter is and main entrance off the forward hall where the 'hot meals' & soup counter is.
Right on queue at 2330hrs European Star slipped her moorings and gently sailed out of Brindisi into the Adriatic Sea and headed towards Albania.
With embarkation commencing at 2100hrs, some two and a half hours before departure, the whole experience was extremely relaxed and civilised whereby you could board at your leisure, check-in to your private ensuite cabin to freshen up, have a tasty meal and a few drinks in the bar before retiring to your cabin for a good night’s sleep.
Having had an exceptionally good night's sleep, within seemingly no time at all European Star was off the coast of Albania.
With a beautiful sunrise this was the perfect time to grab a coffee from the bar and head out to the exterior decks to get some fresh air, passing some old signage which dates back decades.
Unlike the giant cruise ferries of today, being a classic ferry from the 80's European Star offers numerous exterior decks which, may sound strange to say, have a unique character; the whiff of oil from the vents, the engine vibration as you walk past the funnels, walking past open topped lifeboats and even the gently sloping decks themselves - a real old school ship.
Making a bee-line for the stern, I was keen to see the former foot passenger embarkation gangway which was used when this ship, as St Christopher, operated from the Port of Dover.
Obtuse angled walls with dual staircases seemingly enveloped passengers upon boarding; a door giving direct access to the main passenger accommodation on Deck 7 via the shopping centre which is now the location of cabin accommodation - the door is still accessible.
Other than new paintwork this area has barely changed in thirty years.
The slight curvature of the ships' superstructure permits an excellent amount of exterior deck space allowing a plentiful amount of seating plus space for those wishing to have a wonder taking in the breath-taking vistas.
Access to the cabin accommodation on Deck 8 can be obtained from here, an area which as you may recall was once the Motorists Lounge which benefited from having its own private deck area.
Although closed off for the winter, dual staircases give access to Deck 9 which is nestled neatly between the twin funnels and accommodates a counter service bar and seating area with canopy to protect passengers from the Adriatic heat.
As Stena Antrim, this area was previously a vast exterior deck providing 360' vistas.
Given plenty of notice from the ship wide announcements, foot passenger disembarkation was via the same stairwell I ascended the previous evening and just as leisurely - no rushing, pushing or shoving.
Once on the quay, if you glance back to the ships' stern you may notice the ships' former names still vaguely visible through the numerous layers of paint.
Dodging the disembarking traffic and weaving amongst the shore side vehicles, foot passengers walk a relatively lengthy distance along a dusty port road; the airborne dirt not made any better due to the construction of neighbouring waterfront apartments.
The ferry terminal is a modest size which mostly consists of many immigration booths where passenger documentation is scrutinised.
A WC is available but, top tip - bring your own toilet paper.
Upon my 'visit', none was available....I'll say no more.
No catering facilities were noticed within the terminal but, as it's literally across the road from the main thoroughfare in Vlore, beverages and snacks can easily be purchased from there.
The main currency is Albanian LEK but, Euro's are accepted - just have a selection of denominations, coins and notes.
To be totally honest I was rather apprehensive as I'd never been to Albania before and as I (A2B via Sea) does no prior research - I make the mistakes so when you undertake your own adventures you'll know what NOT to do - I didn't know what to expect.
But, the locals are EXTREMELY polite, friendly and courteous and will go above and beyond to help a tourist - even the four legged locals will come and say hello!
For the main shopping boulevard in Vlore, just exit the port, turn right, walk down the road for around five minutes and you'll find MANY shops, bars and restaurants.
Why not [virtually] follow in my footsteps and re-live my journey - here's my vlog:
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